DUXBURY, Vt. — Deciding to hike Camel’s Hump came from the same impetus that led to my first half marathon: the thought that this would be something fun to attempt one day.
Three decades of Upper Valley living have propelled me past the distinctive profile of 4,083-foot Camel’s Hump uncounted times, be it for a sports assignment in Burlington or on trips to see family in Montreal. Heading northbound on Interstate 89, you first spot the peak on the downhill slope from Berlin, Vt., toward Montpelier, descending into the Winooski River valley over which Camel’s Hump stands as sentinel. The exposed double bump of the summit is easy to recognize from most any direction.
Besides the expected workout, a trek up and down the mountain’s eastern flank comes with a bonus: history lessons. You can gain both just a few feet from the Monroe Trail parking lot: a graveyard holding the remains of the trail’s namesake (and a bunch of his dogs) and a memorial to nine men killed in a plane crash during World War II.
But where’s the fun in staying down with the parked vehicles, when there’s this big rock just waiting for you to ascend?
The Monroe Trail is named for Will Monroe, who cut the Long Trail from the Camel’s Hump summit to Middlebury Gap more than 100 years ago. Born during the Civil War, Monroe and his sister, Catherine, cared for a significant number of dogs over their lives, mostly collies and Saint Bernards. All — humans and canines together — are a buried in a family plot just off the trailhead’s upper parking lot.
After signing in at the Green Mountain Club’s welcome board, the hike begins with a gradual rise through a healthy canopy of green cover. Follow the blue blazes through an occasionally rock- and root-strewn path until meeting up with the Dean Trail after 1.3 miles and about 45 minutes; stay to the right.
Monroe ups its game as you gain elevation; stony stairs replace packed dirt, and you often find yourself on a trail sharing space with running water. This would be a problem with April snowmelt; on a sunny July morning, it’s a nice diversion — and a reminder to watch your step.
The route intersects with the Alpine Trail after 2½ miles, requiring a decision: Continue on Monroe and its near-summit intersection with the Long Trail, or turn left for another history lesson? If you can handle very steep terrain and are capable of ignoring any fear of heights, I recommend the latter option.
Yellow-blazed Alpine is narrow, appears to be rarely traversed and gets semi-vertical in a hurry. It’s only a half-mile from the Monroe junction to the Long Trail, but you will get your exercise.
You’ll also miss the objective if you aren’t looking for it: the wing of a B-24 Liberator bomber that crashed just below the Camel’s Hump summit during a training mission in October 1944. Look for a small path on the left as Alpine switches back to the right; what remains of the plane sits in a clearing illuminated by the morning sun.
Nine of the 10 men on board died in the crash; all are remembered by name on a plaque at the Monroe trailhead. Several small American flags dotted the wing, which still retains sharp metal edges. Several others flags had fallen into the wing’s interior, to intermingle with nature.
Overhead, a jet plane rumbled unseen. No contrail. Just gentle thunder. As if to pay its respects.
You’ll cover a shade more than a half-mile of the Long Trail in reaching the mountain’s summit and beginning your descent. It gives you a good idea of why the path along Vermont’s spine has such a challenging reputation.
Taking a right turn uphill from the Alpine Trail, the route to the top of Camel’s Hump is all rock. The views are fantastic, but you are completely exposed to the elements.
Rock cairns are rare, so follow the white blazes on the mountain leading to string tied to stones near the summit. Those are designed to funnel hikers toward walking on the rocks while avoiding the endangered alpine flora that could be easily killed by a wayward stride.
Even on a busy day, there’s ample space at the mountaintop to sit down, eat lunch, rehydrate and enjoy views stretching toward Sugarbush to the south and along the Winooski valley (and I-89) to the east or west.
A nice surprise is the presence of Green Mountain Club caretakers who patrol the summit on summer days. They provide useful information about Camel’s Hump, politely educate the hikers who step in the wrong places and clearly enjoy their jobs at the top of Vermont.
At least 30 people populated the summit when I arrived; I easily passed double that on the way down, taking the Long Trail north (on another tricky, rock-filled route) to its meeting with the Monroe Trail’s uphill terminus before the 3.1-mile descent back to the parking lot. It’s very dog-friendly all the way: I encountered German shepherds, Labrador puppies and several other breeds both atop Camel’s Hump and on the trails in between.
I suspect Will Monroe would have heartily approved.
Greg Fennell can be reached at gfennell@vnews.com or 603-727-3226.