I like to chew.
There, I said it. After decades of politely accepting the status quo, of repressing my true nature in the interest of gratitude and family unity, I’ve decided to take a stand. The traditional Thanksgiving meal is simply too mushy. Too gloppy. Too, well, lifeless.
Let’s be clear. Mashed potatoes can be marvelous. Stuffing is a worthy mortar for a holiday constructed around indulgence. Cranberry sauce has a lovely tang. And butternut squash is positively chipper in name, color and flavor. But served together under a puddle of gravy, snuggled up to a scoop of quaking gelatin salad — does no one else see the problem here? Don’t we have molars for a reason?
I like a meal with some textural gumption, a dish that offers at least a modicum of resistance. I yearn for something crunchy, crispy, chewy to give my teeth some traction between the globs of soft food that mire them like mud beneath tires.
Yes, I know I’m messing with tradition, and I’m aware of the danger. Mine is just one of multitudinous debates that rage every November, generally pitting the orthodoxy against any number of radicals proposing wild ideas such as store-bought pie. And that’s not to mention the list of dietary restrictions and fads that threaten to usurp tradition at many a table each year.
But I must ask: Is a tradition that asks us to disregard — dare I say, to squash — one of our most elemental faculties really worth upholding?
I also realize I haven’t even mentioned the turkey. And yes, it’s true that the star of the typical Thanksgiving table provides the jaw a respectable enough task. But even if you’re one of those people who tear off a leg and go at it medieval style, the balance of textures is still way off.
Finally, I acknowledge that there are those who simply prefer textures in the creamy, fluffy, soft spectrum. I suppose these are the same people maintaining the long reign of plain chocolate and vanilla at the top of the ice cream flavor rankings and sustaining the formidable smoothie empire. And hey, I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with that. Smoothies have their place, I suppose. When you’re hell-bent on using all the bruised strawberries your kids collected at a pick-your-own patch, for example, or when you need to dine directly from a stroller cup holder because you’re schlepping toddlers and their teeny rolling suitcases through an airport.
But when I see someone tossing beautiful fruits and vegetables into a blender, I can’t help imagining the salad or stir-fry or hearty soup they might have been.
Lovers of mushy foods, I respect your right to blend and mash and boil things into oblivion. I’m simply asking you to make a little room at the table for my texture preferences. I’ll settle for minor concessions. We certainly don’t need more dishes cluttering the holiday table, and I know that nixing a beloved dish from the Thanksgiving menu is a bridge too far.
But for those who, like me, crave a bit more complex texture at the Thanksgiving feast, here are a few suggestions for adding a smidge more backbone to traditional Thanksgiving dishes while still respecting their flavor essence.
Extra-CrispySkillet Stuffing
If you’re accustomed to soggy stuffing cooked inside a bird, try this instead: Select a good quality baguette with a nice chewy texture. Cut it into cubes and toast it in a 450 degree oven for about 15 minutes, stirring halfway through. Add vegetables, liquid and seasoning as you normally would. Cook in a well-buttered, oven-proof skillet on low-medium heat for about 10 minutes. Brush more butter on top and transfer to a 400 degree oven. Cook for about 20 minutes. A full recipe can be found on the Cook’s Country website: cookscountry.com.
Baked Mashed Potatoes
Let’s face it. Mashed potatoes aren’t going away without a fight. But you can make them a little less baby’s-first-solids by sliding them into the oven alongside your crispy stuffing until they acquire a nice golden-brown crust on top. Start with your usual mashed potato recipe. Some fans of baked mashed potatoes recommend adding cream cheese, and/or a couple of eggs for added richness and fluff factor, but hey, that’s your call. After mashing the potatoes, spoon them into a buttered casserole dish and bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes. A full recipe can be found on the Framed Cooks website: framedcooks.com.
Roasted Winter Vegetables
Of all the side dishes, squash definitely is the squishiest. Personally, I prefer to just accept its delicate nature and make it into soup. However, to preserve its rightful place alongside the turkey, you can cube it and team it with some brawnier vegetables, such as Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower and green beans, then toss it with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast it in a 450-degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes. Throw in some dried cranberries for the last few minutes for some added textural interest.
Sarah Earle can be reached at searle@vnews.com or 603-727-3268.