Chicago
In weeks since President Donald Trump was inaugurated, bars, restaurants and cafes have staged politically laced fundraisers and bake sales. Still others have designated their eateries “sanctuaries” that promise a safe and tolerant atmosphere for both employees and customers. Food business owners are, increasingly, wearing their politics on their sleeve. Many times, that comes with big risks.
Some restaurateurs say their efforts are an extension of their long-standing political views, while others say the decision to take action — whether it be closing to allow employees to participate in a political protest or sending food to support immigration lawyers working with those affected by the administration’s travel ban — “is just the right thing to do.” The restaurant industry, after all, is one of the largest employers of immigrants in the U.S.
Industry experts say it’s best for restaurant owners to keep their political views to themselves, but acknowledge that’s a difficult task in the current political environment, no matter which side of the aisle one falls on.
Of course, expressing liberal political views is not as big of a risk in big cities that tend to lean heavily to the left. Chicago’s Cook County, for example, went decisively for Hillary Clinton in the presidential election, and donations by local restaurateurs skewed strongly Democratic as well, based on a search of political donations on OpenSecrets.org. But even in places like Chicago, experts say it’s always better for business owners to stay mum.
“The safest bet is to stay away from politics,” said Darren Tristano president of the food research firm Technomic. In the case of recent fundraisers, he added: “it’s more likely that you’ll end up turning more people off on the right than bringing in more of the left.”
However, Tristano said that it’s understandable for chefs and restaurateurs to be concerned about immigrant crackdowns that could have significant impacts on the industry.
About 1 in 4 employees in the restaurant industry are foreign-born, and the industry is also one of the largest employers of workers who are in the country illegally, according to government data.
“The restaurant industry has a lot to lose and quite frankly the American public does too,” Tristano said.
“Restaurants want to become more politically involved, and that’s reflective of the country as a whole,” he added. “We’re more divided, but we’re more engaged too. Americans, especially the next generation, want a voice.”
Michael Roper, owner of Hopleaf bar and restaurant in Chicago, said his moves since the election are part of a long-standing effort to raise money for causes he believes in.
“Our version of doing good has been good for business,” Roper said. “There are always people who say they will not come to Hopleaf because of (our stances) or leave nasty reviews on Yelp. But I would say most of our customers are on board.”
On Inauguration Day, Roper dubbed Hopleaf a “No Trump Zone” and donated a portion of Inauguration Day sales to Planned Parenthood because of concern about possible legislation that would limit access to abortion services. It was the busiest day in Hopleaf’s 25-year history, Roper said.
Hopleaf has held a number of fundraisers for charities related to social justice, the environment and public education.
“We have certain causes that we are not ashamed to say we support,” he said.
Roper said he didn’t get any backlash from his efforts until Inauguration Day, when he got a long letter from a customer who said she voted for Trump and wouldn’t be coming back.
“It’s her right not to shop at a place that offends her politics,” Roper said. “I’m all for somebody coming in (and sharing their views) too. We like to have civil debate over a pint of beer. That’s tavern life.
“But you have to be willing to listen, and we on the left have to be equally tolerant. It’s a weird time because there’s not a lot of listening going on.”
In the future, Roper said he will continue to raise money for causes he believes in, but he’ll work to keep the focus positive.
That was a lesson learned most notably on Inauguration Day.
Roper acknowledges now that declaring Hopleaf a “No Trump Zone” “was a bit over the top.”
“We’ve never had any negative (reactions) until Inauguration Day,” he said.
“It’s probably better in this climate to be positive,” he added. “And using our business as a conduit for that is a good thing.”
There are some causes that Roper is uneasy about participating in.
He says he’s “on the fence” about whether to join the sanctuary restaurant movement, a joint effort by Restaurant Opportunities Centers United, an organization that advocates for higher food industry wages, and Presente.org, an advocacy group for Latin American immigrants. The movement urges restaurants, bars and cafes to proclaim they are safe places to work and dine, regardless of a person’s immigration status, race, religion or gender identity.
“By joining the movement, I worry I may be putting my immigrant workers at risk,” said Roper, who fears making Hopleaf the target of raids by immigration officials. “They all have green cards, and Social Security numbers, but they’re nervous for their cousins, brothers — or that their legitimate papers might be taken away from them. Other times I would say I’m not afraid, but in these times, you never know.”