In the early 1850s, when Strafford resident and gentleman farmer Justin S. Morrill was planting his trees, apples were essential for every home, so much so that Morrill planted 18 varieties.
Morrill, who went on to be a long-serving member of Congress, a founder of the Republican Party and chief architect of the Land-Grant Colleges Act, believed in self-sufficiency, and apples were a staple crop that stored well and provided juice for cider, Vermont Historic Preservation Officer Laura Trieschmann said in a telephone interview.
Through the years, much of the original orchard, which sits on a hillside above the barn, has died off, and now just seven of the original trees remain, said Michael Caduto, executive director of Friends of Morrill Homestead, a nonprofit organization that, in partnership with the state, runs public programs and events and exhibits at the homestead, and also maintains the gardens and orchard.
For almost two decades, attempts to restore the trees have been thwarted by weather and deer. But last week, the state and the nonprofit joined forces to plant several new trees — two pear trees and the rest apple trees of old varieties: Esopus Spitzenburg, Hubbardston Nonesuch, Shropshire, Northern Spy and Cortland.
“It’s taken us two years (after a rogue wind shear destroyed newly-planted trees) to get to a point where we’re finally putting more trees in the ground, and now we’re planting back what was grown here when Justin Morrill was alive,” Caduto said, on a crisp, sunny morning last week.
Morrill, who had a modest upbringing in Strafford and limited formal education, was a voracious reader with a keen sense for business. Starting to work at 15 in the town’s store, he learned the trade, and ultimately made a fortune co-owning four village stores and investing in banks and railroads. In 1848, he retired at 38 years old to build the house and farm of his dreams on 50 acres in Strafford.
From the start, Morrill planned to be an experimental horticulturist rather than a working farmer, according to Coy F. Cross in his book Justin Morrill: Father of the Land-Grant Colleges.
After studying books on architecture and landscaping by architect Alexander Jackson Davis and horticulturist Jackson Downing, Morrill designed his house, barn and the gardens and grounds.
“The property is of national significance, not just for the architecture, but also for the way he laid out the grounds. He kept meticulous notes on what he planted and where, and on what thrived or didn’t. It was all by trial and error,” Trieschmann said.
“What he did gives us not just a frozen glimpse into the 1850s, but a living example of what life was like and a natural history of the property.”
Morrill was a self-made man who grew up without much money, helping grow what the family needed to survive. Apples were a big part of that, Trieschmann said, adding that many of the varieties planted at the Homestead were used for cider, the beverage of choice of the time, and for Morrill.
In addition to raspberries, currants and 15 varieties of pears, Morrill planted Esopus Spitzenburg, Fameuse, Ribston Pippin, Drap d’Or, Northern Spy and Peck’s Pleasant apples, among other varieties.
Last week’s planting, four days after Morrill’s 206th birthday, was just the first round, Caduto said.
“Next year, we’re going to plant a dozen more and a dozen a year for the next few years. It’s our goal in the next decade to have people who attend the Apple and Cheese Harvest Festival to be able to pick apples that are grown here and that are what was originally planted here.”
The first four years of the orchard restoration are expected to cost around $12,000 and the full project $20,000. So far, the Friends group has raised $10,000, including grants from the Mascoma Foundation and the Campbell family of Strafford, Caduto said.
Justin Morrill and his wife, Ruth, were known for entertaining, particularly when they returned to Strafford from Washington, where he served nearly 44 years. They would often host large gatherings and dinners at the Homestead. Despite their conviviality, there are no known existing recipes or cookbooks that may have been used in the Morrill household, Historic Preservation officials said.
However, here are some recipes for apples from the Morrills’ era:
Makes 1½ cups
This recipe from the 1896 Fannie Farmer Cookbook and was adapted by Cook’s Illustrated publisher Christopher Kimball in his 2010 book Fannie’s Last Supper. Farmer was known for adapting old recipes, so this one likely would have been around during the Morrills’ entertaining years.
1 cup granulated sugar
1 piece of lemon rind, ½ inch by 2 inches
2 slices of ginger, each about the size of a nickel and ¼-inch thick
1 pound of McIntosh apples
½ pound of Rhode Island Greening or other tart apples
½ pound of Northern Spy apples
Place the sugar, lemon rind, ginger and 2½ cups of water in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a lively simmer, stirring occasionally until the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Cover and simmer for an additional 3 minutes to allow the ginger to flavor the sugar syrup.
Meanwhile, wash the apples, cut them into quarters and remove the seeds and core. When the sugar syrup is ready, add the apple quarters, cover and cook until tender, about 6 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, remove the apple pieces and place them into a food mill set over a medium-size bowl. Remove and discard the ginger and lemon pieces. Pass the apples through the food mill until only the skins remain. Add the cooking liquid to the applesauce in small increments until the desired consistency is achieved.
This recipe was taken from the 1847 cookbook, The Carolina Housewife, and is characteristic of recipes of the mid-19th century..
“To half a pound of apples, well boiled and pounded, while warm, half a pound of butter, beaten to a cream; to this add six eggs, the whites well beaten; half a pound of powdered sugar and the peel of two lemons, well boiled and pounded. Put a thin crust at the bottom and round the sides of your dish, and bake for half an hour.”
The following recipes, adapted from the cookbook An Apple a Day by Karen Berman and Melissa Petitta, are a more modern take on the use of apples in cooking and a good way to use up the remainder of last fall’s crop:
For a grown-up version, add a shot of vodka to each glass.
Makes 6 drinks
2 cups apple juice
2 cups cranberry juice
12 ounces pineapple juice
2 ounces lemonade or limeade concentrate, thawed
Mint leaves, for garnish
Combine the apple, cranberry, and pineapple juice in a large container or punch bowl. Stir in lemonade or limeade concentrate. Serve in tall glasses with plenty of ice, and garnished with mint leaves.
This variation on the Spanish omelet works for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
Makes 4 servings
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Fuji apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
2 large eggs, separated
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons milk
¼ cup chopped ham (optional)
¼ cup grated cheddar cheese
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large, ovenproof skillet. Add the apple slices and sauté just until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to a plate and set aside. In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites with a handheld mixer until stiff peaks form.
In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Combine the milk and egg yolks in a measuring cup and add to the flour mixture. Stir until blended. With a rubber spatula, fold the egg whites into the batter.
Melt the remaining butter in the same skillet over medium heat; remove from heat. Spread the batter evenly in the pan. Layer the apple slices over the batter and sprinkle with the ham, if using, and grated cheese. Place the skillet on the top rack in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until the cheese is golden brown. Cut into wedges and serve.
This unorthodox combination that makes a delicious, tangy-sweet salad. Separating the beets into two packets helps them cook evenly.
Makes about 2 dozen servings.
4 to 6 small beets (9 to 10 ounces total), washed, but not peeled
2 medium Gala apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch slices, then cut in half crosswise
1½ tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon melted apple jelly or honey
¼ cup olive oil
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Fresh thyme sprigs, for garnish (optional)
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Separate the beets into 2 groups, wrap them in 2 separate foil packets, and roast for 45 to 60 minutes, until tender and easily pierced with a knife. Cool in the foil.
About 10 minutes before the beets have finished cooking, place the apples on a small parchment- or foil-lined sheet pan and place them in the oven with the beets. Roast until golden at the edges and almost tender. (They will soften a bit more on standing.) If you aren’t using Gala apples, watch them carefully, as some varieties cook faster.
Meanwhile, make the dressing by whisking together the vinegar, jelly, oil, salt and black pepper.
When the beets are cool, peel, remove the stems and root ends, and slice them the same size as the apples. Arrange the apples and beets on a plate. Drizzle with dressing. Garnish with thyme, if you desire.
Warren Johnston can be reached at warren.nelson.johnston@gmail.com.
Correction
The state of Vermont leads historic tours and maintains the house and grounds at the Justin Morrill Homestead in Strafford, while the nonprofit Friends of the Morrill Homestead, in partnership with the state, runs public programs, events and exhibits, and also maintains the homestead’s gardens and orchard. An earlier version of this story incorrectly described their roles.