Summer is the time of year when fishing is best, so many New Hampshire anglers, as well as visitors from neighboring states, may decide to keep a “mess o’ fish” for the dinner table.
The Granite State offers a great variety of species that are excellent table fare. Bass, pickerel, perch, rock bass and sunfish are possessed of flaky, white fillets that can be prepared in many ways. Native hornpout also fall into this category — behead, gut and skin them, and they are as tasty as any fish that swims.
Granite State waters offer several possibilities for those inclined to dine on members of the trout family. The state’s Fish and Game department features perhaps the best stocking system in the Northeast, annually releasing nearly a million rainbows, browns and brookies, fresh from the hatchery.
Some larger lakes like Squam, Winnepasaukee and Newfound, present opportunities for landlocked salmon and lake trout. Salmon are quite tasty, but lakers tend to be oilier than most members of the trout family. Still, they are palatable for those who don’t mind their fish tasting, well, fishy.
So you’re out on the water, the fish are biting and you decide to keep a few for the skillet. However, you may not be heading home right away, so it’s important to handle your catch properly to prevent it from spoiling. The primary goal is to keep the fish as fresh as possible until they are cooked.
When I was a boy, fishing the lakes and creeks of Florida, I used a stringer to hold my catch. The cord ran through the gills of the fish and they were floated in the water. However, this method did not keep the fish alive for very long. I don’t remember any bass, bream or catfish spoiling, but there are better, more efficient ways to keep your catch safe.
Today, live wells on modern fishing boats allow anglers to keep their quarry alive all day. The wells provide an aerated flow of fresh water that simulates the fish’s natural environment. When you get them home, they’re still flipping.
If no live well is available, putting the catch directly on ice is the next-best thing. A simple cooler with a bag of ice can maintain freshness, at least until the ice is gone. When it’s time for cleaning, the fillets will be firm and sweet.
Perhaps the most important thing to consider is how quickly fish can putrefy when not handled properly. If the fish dies and is not put on ice, the innards of the catch begin to rot very quickly. This cannot only spoil the taste of the fish, but it can also present a health hazard.
Before a fish is fried or put on the grill, the entire cavity containing the guts should be emptied completely. After the innards are gone, a thin, black lining will remain in the hollow of the stomach. This layer should be removed all the way back to the anal fin. Make sure to rinse the fish in clean, fresh water afterward.
Even if you are not going to eat the fish immediately, the gutting process should be followed precisely. A whole fish can become toxic even if it’s kept in the refrigerator. It is recommended that cleaned fish should remain in the fridge for no more than three days.
Freezing is always an option for fish that can’t be eaten right away. Some anglers will drop the fish into a container of water, freezing the entire fish in a block of ice. Others will make sure the catch is moist and then enclose the fish in clear plastic wrap. Although fish can be frozen for as long as six months, it should be noted that some deterioration can occur even in the freezer.
Now the problem remains of what do to with the leftovers from cleaning. Some anglers will use the innards in compost or for fertilizer. This works but may attract unwanted wildlife. The best thing to do is to freeze the guts and toss them in the day of trash pickup so they don’t spoil in the garbage can. Or you can bury them deeply away from the house.
Fish can be prepared in a variety of ways but my favorite is deep frying. If I’m hankering for a fish dinner, I’ll catch a limit of white perch and fillet them. What remains is a fillet about the size of a jumbo shrimp.
Roll the fish in a mixture of beaten egg, milk, pepper and cracker crumbs. Fry them in any kind fresh oil, and dip them in cocktail or tartar sauce.
(Author’s note: Due to environmental factors, New Hampshire Fish and Game recommends the consumption of no more than one monthly four-ounce fish meal for children under the age of 7 and no more than four eight-ounce meals for adults.)
Bon appetit!
Coleman Stokes can be reached at stokecoles@gmail.com.