“William Coldwell, born 1695 in England, was kidnapped and impressed into the British navy when only sixteen years old. He deserted at Boston in 1712. Married Jane Jordan at Stoughton, Mass. Had a large family of children. Lived in Stoughton, Connecticut. Moved to Nova Scotia, where he died in 1802, aged 107 years.”
These words make up part of my genealogy records as compiled by my ancestor, Charles T. Caldwell, M.D., in 1910 as part of a “Historical Sketch of the Family.” That is, the family of my mother, Jean Coldwell (that’s right, the family surname changed over the centuries).
Several decades prior to the era when British loyalists left the colonies during the Revolutionary War, my ancestor had already chosen to head north to Nova Scotia, where he’d been offered land by the British government. He loved the landscape there and had some emotional connections to the region from previous “adventures on the Isle of Sable for the relief of the distressed castaway there,” according to the genealogy records. Sable Island, Nova Scotia, was the capital of ship wrecks in the northeast since there were so many shallow, craggy shoals awaiting the unaware.
Looking at my family’s past reminds me of my sense of adventure. I suppose that is what has drawn me to the world of trails — there is always something interesting and new to experience around the next corner.
I can’t imagine what it must have been like to travel with cart and family in tow from Connecticut along rustic, dusty roads and breaking trail to the Gaspereau Valley of Nova Scotia in 1755. Extremely challenging, I am sure — one of those adventures you never forget and helps shape who you are.
This past fall, my wife Jane and I decided to take our first visit to Italy, or “Italia,” as we prefer to call it. We’ve taken many trips both locally and throughout North America, but this would be our first trip overseas.
Coincidentally, while delving into my genealogy records, I discovered direct connections to Northwestern Italy. Three of my ancestors, all brothers, lived in the Piedmont valleys of Italy in the 1500s before moving to France and later Scotland, where they too, like William Coldwell, had been offered land to settle there.
I’m still wondering if I walked along any of the same ground they dud. It turned out that my co-workers at the Upper Valley Trails Alliance were the perfect fit for me as “Italia” travel planners. They each had either lived or visited there several times and understood the priorities for Jane and me while we visited: getting outside, exploring and connecting with the local community and finding some unplanned adventures (along with great food, of course). Florence, Lucca, Pisa, Cinque de Terre, the Tuscany region and Rome all made it to our list.
Hiking through village neighborhoods full of character, following cobblestone pathways, and heading upslope on beautiful stone staircases, we were in awe as shimmering sunset colors reflected on the Arno River high above Florence. A little wine, which had been provided by our Airbnb hosts, complemented the experience.
Each day provided a new adventure and lasting memories. There was the bike ride around a loop trail atop the ancient walled city of Lucca; a cobblestone-laden walk as we explored the wonders of the Leaning Tower of Pisa; the exploration of the Italian Riviera, where five fishing villages are linked by cliffside trails; and a trek along pathways through Tuscany vineyards to reach the ancient city of San Gimignano. These were just some of the trip’s highlights.
As UVTA’s Trail Programs Director, I have had the rewarding opportunity to design and lead a wonderful partnership of trail advocates, trail builders and volunteers working together to create long-lasting treadways to beloved hilltops.
When asked how long these trails will last, I normally reply with, “A century or more.”
The main trail on Norwich’s Gile Mountain features a well-designed stone staircase that flows like a stream through the landscape, leading to some of the best vistas in the Upper Valley. Not yet living 100 years, as my ancestor William did, I really can’t say this rock work will be around that long. But if withstanding events such as Tropical Storm Irene offer any indication indicate, it will be there for a long time.
My visit to Cinque de Terre, which boasts some of the best coastal hiking trails in the world, proved to reinforce that judgement. Old staircases, retaining walls and placed stones provide a durable pathway high above the Ligurian Sea, linking life between these quaint and culturally vibrant villages.
I can only hope that my children’s children can have some of these same life experiences exploring trails while connecting with the vibrant communities around them.
John Taylor is the trail programs director at Upper Valley Trails Alliance. He can be reached at john.taylor@uvtrails.org or 802-649-9075.